Wednesday, 27 March 2019

March Block Lotto

TOTALLY TULIPS!

Unfinished size: 9 ½” X 17 ½”


Here’s your chance to break out those wild and crazy prints you’ve been wondering what to do with! This block is made up of two parts - the top “petals” are basically a four patch of 5” squares with snowballed corners. The bottom “leaves” are four HSTs with the addition of a stem.

You will need:
  • Background - White solid
  • Cut two 5” squares
  • and four 2 ½” squares

Tulip Petals - cheerful bright prints, avoid directional prints, no solids
Four 5” squares (leftover charms are perfect)

Leaves - any green tone-on-tone, stripes are fun but choose whatever you like, no solids
Two 5” squares

Stem - a different green, a horizontal stripe is good here too, no solids
1 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle


Sewing:


  1. Start with the petals. Place a 2 ½” white square in one corner of each of your 5”bright print squares. Sew on the diagonal to “snowball” the corner. Trim, press and square up now to avoid future headaches (don’t ask me how I know this!)
    Arrange in a pretty manner with the white corners facing as the photo. Sew the top two squares together, then the bottom two squares together and press the seams in opposite directions so they will “nest” when you then sew these two sets together.
  2. Take the two 5” white squares and the two 5” green squares and make four HSTs.
    Arrange as the photo. Sew each pair together on the horizontal seam so you will be able to then sew the stem between them. Press the seam allowance towards the stem.
  3. Now sew the top “petal” part to the bottom “leaves” part.
  4. Square up to 9 ½” X 17 ½”
    Each tulip equals one ticket.
Make one, make 3, make a whole garden! Happy sewing : )



Tuesday, 26 March 2019

March Show & Share

Quilts shown by members this month:

Lois learned about inset circles in Lorna Shapiro's workshop, passed on her knowledge in a demo at a recent meeting, and now here's a quilt she made using this technique.

 Ursula brought three pieces that she made in recent workshops:


 Anne loves to make baby quilts, here's her latest!
 Esther showed us the mini quilt she received in the MQG swap
 Barbara's been working with penguins (there were elephants on the back!)
 Taking advantage of the last of the snow before it melted, Sharon did some snow dyeing on fabric
 Rosalie made a mini with hearts representing the members of her group that goes on retreats.


She also made this large geometric quilt
 Liz made this 'Boomerang' pattern quilt for her sister's wedding gift....

.... and she used up all the leftovers to make smaller projects

 Fay's quilt for a friend's 50th birthday
 Maureen made this one in a workshop with Chris Bowen
 Marianne showed some of her inset circles she's been working on


Cindy's sister asked for a bag to hold her Catan games... she made it big enough to hold the games, a bag of chips AND a bottle of wine!

 Nicole received this mini in the MQG swap from a Canadian quilter living in New York
Sarah tested this paper pieced bee for Lillyella, and showed some of the blocks she's been making in the monthly foundation paper piecing club with Quietplay.


 Sarah also brought this quilt top that's been ten years in the making, using Hungry Caterpillar fabric.
 Audrey shared her Disappearing Nine Patch
Maureen's quilt 'Separation at the Border,' represents parents and children being separated and the emotions they go through.

Thursday, 21 March 2019

Quilt Facing

Recently we had three great demonstrations by guild members on different binding techniques. Jo-Anne Allbutt showed how to do facings - binding that is completely hidden on the back of the quilt, often used for quilts that will hang on the wall. Here are her instructions:

Supplies

- 4 strips of fabric (measurements are based on 2 ¼” strips)
     2 strips 2” shorter than the top and bottom length of quilt
     2 strips 2” longer than the sides of the quilt.
- ¼” foot works wonders
- spray starch, best press or spray water

Method

  1. Begin by turning the short end of your strip under ¼ so you are working with a finished edge. This step isn’t necessary for wall quilts but I do prefer it for bed quilts.
  2. Sew, using a ¼” seam, right side of strip fabric to right side of quilt front, beginning about 1” from corner. Stop 1” from end and turn the strip end under for a finished edge.
  3. Iron flat and then re sew using a 1/8” seam, sewing through the seam allowance.
  4. Go back and iron again. From the front of the quilt, with the iron in one hand, use your other hand to twist the strip fabric seam to the back as you go. Ensure you can not see any of the strip fabric from the front. Best press or starch work well to keep this flat.
  5. Turn the raw edge of the strip under a ¼” and iron so that you have a finished edge to hand sew to the back of the quilt. If you are doing an art quilt, you can do this step in the beginning but if the quilt is on the larger size, I find that the ¼” iron mark is gone by the time I go to hand sew.
  6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the sides of the quilt.

Helpful Hints

  • Whenever possible, I try to use the same fabric for the strips as the backing fabric so that it appears invisible.
  • Match thread to the backing fabric, as the seam will be visible on the back.


Jo-Anne also recommended Terry Aske's tutorial on facing, which includes photos.